Defying the war: A teenager's life in Kyiv

For Anastasiia Kostenko, war is an everyday part of life. The 17-year-old lives in Kyiv, the capital of Ukraine, where captured Russian tanks line the city's historic St. Michael's square, a daily minute of silence pays tribute to the war dead and sirens pierce the air when a Russian missile attack is imminent.

"The war has influenced us a lot. It changes our pace of life, the conditions in which we work," Anastasiia explains about the conflict now stretching into its third year.

Still, war does not exclusively define her life any more than it exclusively defines the historic city that she calls home — a city full of parks, delicious street food and cozy book cafes.

The war also feels far away in her room. As it is for many teenagers, it's her favorite place at home. Her desk is scattered with schoolbooks, science competition badges and a stuffed toy dog perching on her sofa. The artwork in her room includes a painting she did herself, showing Venetian gondolas on still water, the iconic Rialto Bridge in the background. 

"I was in Venice and many countries," said Anastasiia. "After I travel, I paint my memories, the places I liked the most."

The place she likes most of all, however, is her home city.

 

A vibrant and historic city

Kyiv's history can be traced back over millennia. The earliest signs of settlement date to tens of thousands of years ago, though the city is traditionally recognized as having been founded in 482 CE; it celebrated its 1,500th anniversary in 1982. 

Today, the metropolitan area is home to some 3.5 million inhabitants, making it Ukraine's most populous city.

Kyiv straddles the Dnipro River. Anastasiia lives on the river's right bank, in the neighborhood of Teremky, in the city's southwest. The neighborhood borders a giant forest, part of national park — one of the many green spaces the city boasts.

Kyiv has been recognized as one of Europe's greenest capitals. Anastasiia especially appreciates the city's parks. "Teenagers like to spend their free time here," she said. "It's free and there are beautiful landscapes."

Kyiv is also known for a unique street food offering called perepichka. A sort of hot dog in fried dough, it's sold from an unostentatious small food joint off Kyiv's busy main street, Khreshchatyk, and enjoyed by young and old alike.  

"Everyone eats perepichka here, students, businessmen and the city council," said Anastassia, before taking a bite out of hers as people pass by, many carrying the telltale white bags in their hands.

Air raid shelters for when war interrupts

When Anastasiia wants to go downtown, she takes the metro. Opened in 1960 with just five stations, the underground rail system has grown to 52 stations today, including some that rank among the deepest in the world. For example, the Arsenalna station, in downtown Kyiv, is located some 105.5 meters (346 feet) underground.

This depth currently provides an extra layer of security, as Kyiv's residents take shelter in metro stations during Russian air attacks. "Air raid alerts can last three to four hours. Here people sleep and eat. They have their seats and chairs," said Anastasiia.

Anastasiia doesn't have to take the metro to school, though. That's only a 10-minute walk away from her home. There, too, however, they are prepared for when the war interrupts. "We have shelters at school; we go down there during air-raid alerts," she said.

Not every school in Ukraine is as well outfitted as hers; in fact, 20% of all students must learn at home because their schools lack air raid shelters. For those who go to school, concentrating on their studies hasn't been easy since the war began.

Anastasiia is glad she can attend school in person. Her school has light-flooded hallways and bright blue stairwells. Colorful posters line the walls of her biology classroom, and a skeleton stands in the corner as she and her 20 classmates prepare to do some practical work at their desks.

This is Anastasiia's last year at school. She will soon be taking her final exams, and she hopes to study applied chemistry after graduating. Her male classmates will have to complete obligatory basic military training at age 18, though they cannot be drafted until they are 25. Still, some are already thinking about how they will defend Ukraine, said Anastasiia, pointing out that this isn't uncommon.

"There are graduates in our lyceum who went to defend Ukraine immediately after leaving school," she explained.

Kyiv: 'It's my city'

After school, Anastasiia sometimes goes to one of Kyiv's popular book cafes to unwind. Reading is a common pastime for the country's residents, with half of all Ukrainians saying they like to read — higher than the EU average of 43%.

She picks up a chocolate-covered croissant and warm drink and sits with a friend at a table, surrounded by floor-to-ceiling shelves packed with colorful books. The cafe has a living room feel about it, with its warm lights and cozy atmosphere.

"When you meet here with your friends, you really have a rest. You talk about your own life, and you don't only think about the war. You make plans for the future, think about how you will work together in the future, or go to travel," she said.

Living abroad is on the mind of many of Ukrainian students; one in four plan to leave the country and move abroad.

But Anastasiia isn't one of them — there is too much she likes about Kyiv. 

"I will stay in Kyiv, live here and plan my future here. It's my city. It is a combination of history, crazy rhythm, incredible landscapes and parks. That is why I will stay here and restore our country."

This article was adapted from DW's YouTube series "Young and European." You can watch the video version of this episode and others here.